Silk Restaurant at Hilton’s Courthouse Hotel has a remarkable history. The attentive waiters lost no time in giving us a run-down of the various recipients of her Majesty’s justice who had passed through the doors of The Great Marlborough Street Magistrate’s Court:
“The first obscenity trial for a comic book in English history, against International Times in 1971. John Lennon’s sensational court case regarding the sale of sexually explicit lithograph drawings was thrown out on a technicality in 1970, and Mick Jagger spent time here defending his name when it was alleged he was caught in possession of cannabis (and Marianne Faithful!). Keith Richards received a £205 fine here in 1973 for possession of marijuana, heroin and mandrax, as well as a Smith and Wesson revolver and an antique shotgun, both held without a licence.”
My guest and I lost no time in enjoying the various dishes that were placed in front of us: Konkani Jhinga , Lime Leaf Crusted Scallops and Kai Haw Bai Toey to start with. The prawns in the Konkanu Jhinga were firm and succulent and the scallops were, as they should be, near to butter and slightly sweet. For mains we had a selection again: Pla Neung Manao, Gosht Chappe and Tamarind Glazed Duckling. The former was a small and gently flavoured piece of Sea Bream, the Gosht Chappe, a clay baked piece of lamb and the duckling a delightfully moist and gamey take on the French duck a l’orange.
The wine list was modestly priced and the white and red we enjoyed were full flavoured. Certainly I would advise deferring to the staff here when choosing a wine to accompany your meal.
Spices, sweetness and a good balancing of textures marked the meal out as an enjoyable treat for those evenings when you want the food to be something of an event and one that takes place amidst the paneled confines of a famous court room.
Reviewer: Leo Staples
Location: 19 – 21 Great Marlborough Street, London, United Kingdom W1F 7HL
Tube: Nearest tube is Oxford Circus
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